Youth and Fashion: Communicating Through Dress

A WINTER SOJOURN PROJECT OF SIKKIM UNIVERSITY
The cold climate of Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok, the influence of Christianity, and the influence of Nepali diaspora are what many view as the main reasons for the changes in the way people dress in these hills. This is one of the key preliminary findings by Sikkim University’s Winter Sojourn team on the theme “Youth and Fashion”. The study was conducted for two weeks in Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok.
“The region is unique in terms of the fashion trends which itself has undergone changes over time. Our broad aim is not only to understand the changing trends in the way youth dress but also in the modes of communication both as a receiver as well as a producer of fashion consciousness.”, says Dr. Teibor, the team leader.
The field work which involves students of various departments undertook extensive in-depth interviews with the young people and the various cross sections of the society. This include, elders, clothes merchants, tailors and dress makers, branded and non branded shops, and local entrepreneur, craftsmen and designers.
According to the team, fashion among the youth is a way of expressing their identity as part of the generation next. The findings also indicate that information about latest trends in fashion among the youth is received through peers, media like movies-particularly Korean movies, music, mobile and internet.
The team also studied the other aspects of fashion that involve perception and adaptability of traditional dress and designs in modern era and also as a way of communicating the rich cultural heritage of the region.
“There has been a decline of interest on traditional dress, arts and design among the youth”, says Sonika Lama, a student of the Department of the Geography and member of the team, According to her, “except for a brief period during the movement for Gorkhaland or during festivals, there has not been much interest among the youth in traditional dress. Many young people opined that modern designs need to be incorporated in the traditional dress and should suit the climate of this region”. Rinki Kesharwani, the theme co-coordinator adds, “Young generations follow these traditional trends of dressing under social pressures only on certain occasions because they don’t want to look different from their community members. They want to identify themselves with their particular communities. On the other hand, in their normal daily lives when they are with friends, in college and other social groupings of their age they prefer to go for so called modern, imported, branded and sometimes local new ways of dressings because they think that it enhances their self esteem and confidence. They feel very good and positive about themselves.”
Chandra Rai, a school teacher, said, “there is a need to develop cottage industry on weaving, and introduction of vocational curriculum in schools if traditional dress are to be popularized and communicated to the outside world”.
“We had a lot of learning in the field, something that we could have never got in the classrooms. This has widened our perspective and we thank our University for giving this exposure”, says Pema Uden Sherpa, a student member of the team.
The Winter Sojourn was introduced last year as an annual fixture at Sikkim University. This winter filed trip is an attempt by the university to orient students and faculty in field-based research on issues that are of great relevance and importance to the region.
On the experience of this winter sojourn, Kiran Chhetri, a BSc student of Floriculture and Horticulture department, said that “I had never ever interacted with strangers, but this field trip taught me how to do that. I am very privileged and lucky to study in such an institution which does not only stress on academics but also give us a chance in other experience as well that help us to attain one of the best experience of our lifetime…I had such a wonderful experience , which I shall cherish lifelong”.
“Fashion as a theme, what I personally felt was very exciting project because as a young research student this project was something unique and exhaustive. The survey has really enhanced and broadened the horizon on the notion of fashion to me. Fashion, initially make us think only of the glamorous stereotype, but when one actually penetrates beneath this, it also involves the perception of a layman or the means how they perceive and carry on their sense of living”, says Kunsang Ongmu, a student of Sociology.
It is also informed that this theme on youth and fashion is also supplemented by the “Oral History Film Project” of Sikkim University. The project documents the rich cultural heritage of this region and is the process of making a series of films on oral history of the Eastern Himalayan Region.
-RINKI KESHARWANI [Convenor, Theme Fashion Winter Soujourn 2012, Sikkim University]